Getting ready to launch from my campsite south of Kwakume Point.
Because of the long paddle yesterday, and having to stay up late to make sure my camp was above high tide, I slept late today not getting up until 9am. By the time I launched it was 11:15am. The beach where I spent last night was definitely the only place along this stretch of coastline where camping is possible. Most of the nearby shore is solid rock with few places to land and none to camp. The sky was gray and overcast as I made my way 14 miles north along the eastern shoreline of Fitz Hugh Sound toward today’s destination, Namu.
Looking back at last nights campsite as I paddle off.
The seas were very confused in Fitz Hugh Sound on this day. As wind formed waves hit the vertical rock shoreline, they reflected black into themselves. This created a very choppy condition that made paddling uncomfortable. It was impossible to relax for even a second as I had to be ready at all times to brace if a wave hit me hard. The sensation was similar to that of riding a mechanical bull as it try’s to throw you off by twisting and bucking in every direction. As I reached the shoreline opposite of Hakai Pass the conditions worsened. Now sea swells from the open Pacific were able to enter and cross Fitz Hugh Sound adding their energy to the already rough wind waves. I noted in my logbook this evening that although I made it through this area with only slight discomfort, a novice paddler would have been completely terrified. I speculated that this was possibly mother natures payback for allowing me such an easy crossing of Queen Charlotte Strait and rounding of Cape Caution earlier this week.
Heading north up the eastern shoreline of Fitz Hugh Sound.
Approaching Namu.
I made it to Namu at around 4pm and tied up to the dock.
My kayak on the dock in Namu.
Namu is a very interesting place. The best way I can describe it, is that it is a cross between a 60’s hippy commune and an abandoned Soviet era industrial complex. I am not being critical. The place was cool. The caretakers, Peter and Rene, came out to meet me and made me feel right at home. They showed me around and rented me some bunk space in a large hostel like building that used to be a restaurant when Namu was an operating fish processing plant. They have built a rustic kitchen and dining area on a large floating dock. This was a perfect spot to cook and eat dinner and still be just a few feet away from my kayak stored safely on the dock. There are hot showers, flush toilets, and a washer and dryer but most of all just having a dry place to cook and sleep is a big comfort.
The floating kitchen with it's unique fireplace.
Around 6pm, Peter built a fire in the big open fireplace in the floating dining room. There were a few other boaters docked there in everything from beautiful yachts to small sailboats and fishing boats. We got together around the fire and swapped stories about our experiences along the Inside Passage.
For any kayakers passing through this area Namu is a definite must see.
When Namu was an operating fish cannery workers lived in these houses.
